The Alpine- There’s no place quite like it; the zone in the high peaks where rock and snow define the landscape.

Whether it is a pure rock climb or a combination of the 3 disciplines (rock, snow, ice), for climbers there is no better way to practice our craft than in the alpine surrounded by high peaks.

Climbers come from all over the world to climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. The climbing options abound for all abilities. From shorter classics, to longer and steeper routes, it’s all here right out our door.

Please call for information and suggestions for your alpine climb. KMAC guides will work closely with you offering climbing suggestions to design your outing.

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Here are a few of our Alpine favorites: * Notes as one of the “Fifty Classic Climbs in North America”.

Pure Rock

Petite Grepon, South Face – (5.8 – 8 pitches – 2.5 hour approach)

Incredible climbing, this climb is on the list of the 50 best climbs in North America for a reason. Fun and interesting features lead to a summit floating in the sky no bigger than a strip of sidewalk.

Hallets North Face: Noted for its reasonable 2 hour approach to the base, this historic climb in the alpine has just about everything-   Face, cracks, and wonderful stemming all in a position of unrivaled beauty.

Culp Bosier – (5.8)

Jackson Johnson – 7 pitches, (5.9)

Love Route- 6 pitches, (5.8)

Spear Head:  3 hour approach

East Ridge (5.6 – 6 pitches –): Incredible setting and very enjoyable climbing up a ridge line to the summit of a spire in the middle of one of the most beautiful cirques on earth.

North East Ascent – Scrambling leads up to the spectacular traverse to the very end point of the actual Spears Head with exposure you remember forever.

Sharks Tooth:  3 hour approach.

South Face – 5 pitches 5.4

South Ridge – 5 pitches 5.8

Notchtop Mountain:   2 hour approach.

Spiral route – 6 pitches, 5.5 –   Very enjoyable outing, the climbing will never be overly difficult but the exposure will steadily rise as the valley floor recedes. Excellent first alpine climb.

South Face – 7 pitches, 5.9 – Excellent crack climbing always in the sun and exposed.

Beginner Alpine Climb, the Little Matterhorn – (4th to low 5th class):  Perfect for beginners, families and young children.  After a two hour hike you begin scrambling on the lower slopes to gain the Little Matterhorn ridge.  We’ll follow this ridge roped together meandering from side to side as the exposure increases.

Longs Peak

Keyhole Ridge – 8 pitches, 5.5 (pure rock and seldom climbed classic)

Keyhole – Early season rock, snow, ice – Rock after July 1

Mixed Climbing

Longs Peak

Keyhole – Early season rock, snow, ice – Rock after July 1
Keiners East Face- Rock, snow, ice
North Face – Early season rock, snow, ice – Rock after July 1
Stetners Ledges – Early season rock, snow, ice – Rock after July 1

McHenrys Peak

Stone Man’s Pass- Rock and snow

Ypsilon Mountain

Blitzen Ridge – Rock and snow

Powell/Taylor  – Ice, Rock, and snow

Those Seeking Adventure and Solitude:

Deep in Rocky Mountain National Park we have found not only classic high quality climbs, but a pristine and peaceful experience.  The ascent is just one part of the journey. These climbs will almost certainly offer complete in a wilderness setting. The approaches will be longer, usually requiring a long hike in (10+ miles) and bivy at the base, climbing the second day. Though hundreds exist, here are a few of our favorites that amount to a “mini” expedition:  The rewards outweigh the effort.

Hayden Spire: A long day of hiking and complicated off trail navigation leads to the base of Hayden Spire, deep in Forrest Canyon. Climbs from 5.4 to 5.9 lead up these remote towers.

Aiguille de Fleur: An eight mile approach from the West side of RMNP leads to the impressive Aiguille de Fleur (flower tower), a remote and seldom visited fin of rock, considered the best on the West side. Seven pitches (routes range from 5.6-5.9) lead to a magical flower garden from which the name comes from.